Neighboring Georgia may get all the attention, but a new three-day visa service means that Azerbaijan is the South Caucasian country to watch. From the "burning mountain" of Yanar Dag, to the mud volcanoes and petroglyphs of Gobustan, to the beaches of the Absheron Peninsula, the Land of Fire offers a dramatic mix of landscapes. And poised as it is at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, its people, culture and food are a captivating blend of East meets West. In the capital, Baku, the cobbled streets and 12th-century fortresses and minarets of the Old City sit side by side with the fiercely modern architecture of the Flame Towers and Zaha Hadid's Heydar Aliyev Center, reflecting the city's enormous growth since oil-drilling began in the 19th century.